background info and process.
I was given a Swan 500C several months ago. My co-worker/friend
(Robert) lost his
dad who was a ham operator like me and in his will asked him to give away his gear
rather than allow other people to pay them 1/3 of what the stuff was worth just so they could
sell it and make some money off of them. I loved that old boat anchor but didn't care for the old analog display.
(I had flashbacks of the old Tempo One I had in the early 80's).
I was looking for other Swan gear to get ideas of its value etc and
saw a non-working
Swan 250 6 meter radio for sale cheap, so I bought it. All it really needed was tubes and after about $50 in tubes,
I had it up and running. Talk about a nightmare trying to figure out where you are on that rig,
no crystal calibrator and a variable capacitor to move frequencies from 50-54 MHZ in addition to the VFO!
With the TS-2000 transmitting 1 watt into a dummy load, I was able to locate 50.125
and locked it down there until I figured out how to get a frequency display going.
In my pursuit of a display, I ran across a Siltronix 1011D for sale
(again, non-working) and got it very reasonable.
It had a couple bad tubes and a couple bad solder connection and it was up and drifting as "normal".
Now what have I done. I started with one analog display and ended up with three.
I saw an FD1011 on eBay at a current bid of about $40 and so I
thought I could probably win it for $75 or so.
Well, I didn't win it and it sold for about $125 or so. Then I saw a Swan DD-76 (made for the 350, 500, 700 transceivers)
and thought I would be willing to pay $125 for that one... Well, it and another sold at about the same time for $265 and $295 :(
It's is now time for plan B! Make my own solution somehow. I started doing some research and found Neil
at http://aade.com He is a class act! I bought a "Swan kit" from him and for my Swan 250 and assembled it.
(I had an issue with it that I may have caused and Neil fixed me right up with new parts NC!)
OK, here is the information you really came here for :p
1) Get the DFD1 Siltronix 1011 KIT (add the backlit option if you'd like) and assemble it slightly different than the instructions he sends. Place all parts on the TOP of the PCB. His kit assumes that you are going to place the control board on the back of the LCD display and in order to do that, there are several parts he has you place on the back for easy access. Since we are going to place the control board away from the display (there is not enough room between the front panel and the VFO for both) It will be MUCH easier if all parts are installed on the top (except for the crystal oscillator surface mount device). Also, I used some flat cable I took from an old floppy drive cable (14 wires) and used that to connect the display to the control PCB.
2 )Get a Bezel that you will like. I got one from AADE, but didn't like it. I then found one at http://www.seetron.com that I liked much better. I got the BEZ-216 as it is exactly the correct size for these kits. They are $6 each, so I got 3 of them plus $5 shipping. ($11 for one shipped) I came with the black, peel and stick bezel, 2 sets of spacers, screws and nuts to mount the display. It would look a little nicer if you were to counter sink the mounting screws and then just stick the label on to cover them up, but I didn't want it to peel off later, so I drilled through the bezel and ran the screws through it too. A black sharpie will make the screws black and you can also use it to color the bare aluminum area that the bezel doesn't hide.
3) Make a 9 VDC regulated supply to power the display. It would accept 9-20 volts or so, but the little 78L05 regulator on the board gets pretty hot is it has to dissipate too may volts for too long. (schematic of what I did is here). It will get 12 VAC from the closest tube socket, rectify that with a 1N1004 or similar and filter with a capacitor and regulate to 9 VDC. You can get a 7809 3 pin regulator if you want, but I had a bag full of 7812 in my junk box, so I used it. That gave me 12 VDC out and I wanted 9, si I took 4 1N1004 diodes in series with the output and that dropped the voltage .7V per diode to 9.2 volts DC!
Note: TEST the setup BEFORE you start taking your radio apart!! I used a 9 volt battery with a battery clip and soldered the LO to the FD1011 connector on the back of the radio. At this point, you could just get a box of some sort to put the display into external if you wanted to. (Like this) It sure would be easier!
4) remove the face from you radio. (OMG, do WHAT?) In order for this to work, the white plastic indicator wheel must be removed so you will have room for the display to fit behind the panel. There are 4 switches mounted to the face of the radio. It might be easier to photo and mark the wires and unsolder them, but I just unscrewed them from the cover. The VFO dial has a screw in the black knob, then two in the metal ring. Once they are off, you will see the hole in the top of the gear reducer that is mounted to the face that couples it to the VFO shaft behind it. There are 2 screws 90 degrees apart, so be sure to loosen both of them. Remove all knobs and nuts holding all the various controls to the cover. Unsolder the two wires to the S-meter. Once you get the face off the radio, you can remove the old dial. I placed the 2 screws back into the shaft so they would be there if I ever decided to go back to the original configuration. Now with the faceplate off the radio, use the LCD display as a template on the back side and use a sharpie to mark the 4 holes to be drilled for the mounting screws. Once they are drilled and cleaned up, you can drill the offset in the front, insert the screws apply the bezel to the front. (you can drill through the back side for the holes in the bezel it if you don't plan on countersinking the screws, and add the screws after the holes are drilled).
5) Get some foam tape, velcro, or something to place the control PCB to the top of the VFO compartment. I used a screw in standoff and drilled a hole in the middle of the PCB to mount it to an existing screw hole on the VFO cover. Just make sure it doesn't move around and short out something.
6) If you want the the display to be correct for USB and LSB, then you will have to use the mode switch to open and close the connection on the PCB for mode. Open is USB, shorted in LSB. The mode switch has 4 gangs and the schematic shows that only 3 of them are used. If that is the case, then you are good to go. My 1011D had all 4 sections used so I disconnected the set that went to the VFO to turn on the offset for AM and LSB so the analog dial will be accurate for all bands. If you have a digital display, no need to the offset corrections.
Here is a link to the 1011 kit at AADE http://aade.com/manuals/dfd1Siltronic.pdf
Tell Neil I said hi!